I loved it, I duck dived as well as ever, I made it to the line up shattered but feeling excited, I selected the right waves, paddled and caught them but I was so spent doing all this that every time I went to stand, I fell. Over the falls and off the back I just didn’t make it once. Gutted.
Paddling out to avoid a close out set I felt a sharp sting in my chest muscle. I was battered by now so had to give up. Realising at 55, I just wasn’t as fit as I needed to be.
The drive back home didn’t dampen my enthusiasm, nor did the googling to see that I had tore chest muscles which still hurt a few months on. In fact, I’m now determined to never let the surf go again. I will be back…not next week but definitely way before another 25 years!