As a big wave surfer, Cotty is someone who knows fear. To ride and conquer 70ft+ waves he has had to learn how to suppress the ‘flight’ auto-response in order to build upon his progression. We were well up for learning some stuff to support our surfing. But rather than do any of the time consuming ‘fear’ research work ourselves, and write an article as good surf journalists likely would, we thought we’d just sack it off, give Cotty a buzz and tap him up. He did not disappoint.
If you’re sitting there thinking ‘I’m going to grab my Bic log and book a flight out to Nazaré, ride a 60ft’r then become a big wave surfer’, then sorry to piss on your chips but we are pretty sure you’ll die. We are led to believe that it takes a lot of fitness, planning, money and years of big wave surfing experience. For example, have you got a safety team? Or at least a jetski and a crazy mate willing to pilot it up a moving watery mountain? Or can you hold your breath for ages? Maybe we should all just leave it to the professionals for the minute. You know, just enjoy watching it on our phones/computers whilst tucking into some cheese or a Horlicks from the comfort of dry land.
This call took place as Andrew Cotton was in transit on his way to the Azores just 4 days after he had ridden what some were calling the ‘biggest ever’ at Nazaré. Hear his own thoughts on this incredible day via Cotty’s own website, otherwise click the video below.